Wow! What a difference a year makes. A year ago I was just arriving in Morocco. Although I had visited once in 1995, I had only been in Fes for a couple of days (having taken the train from Tangier straight there and then returned directly to the ferry.) I had no idea what to expect in 2019. This time I knew what to expect under normal circumstances, but was unsure of what COVID had wrought in the 6 months since my departure. Morocco had been on total lockdown for 3 of those months. For Americans wondering what that means, being outside your home is only allowed to go to the store, to go to the hospital, or to leave the country, UNLESS you are an essential worker. Yes, just like everywhere else, those who bring us food and utilities are suddenly recognized as important people in the community. The last 3 months had seen a gradual reopening across the country and then the partial restrictions imposed on the 6 largest cities, of which Casablanca is the biggest.
I had been told that I wouldn't be able to get in to the country since only Moroccans and residents were being allowed in. However, I had been granted my carte de sejour (residency card) a couple of weeks before leaving in March. I had my receipt in hand, but no carte. That was waiting to be picked up at the Casablanca police station. When I finally decided to return (at 1 am a couple of weeks beforehand), everything had fallen into place. I was able to get a ticket on the once a week plane (which happened to fly on my day off) and my doctor scheduled me for the antibody and active COVID tests for immediately before leaving. Luckily in Hood River, we have the rapid tests available which give you your results in 30 minutes. This was important because the test could not be more than 48 hours old upon arrival in Morocco.
I arrived at JFK with my papers in hand and they gave me my ticket and got me on the plane. Both of my Delta flights and my Royal Air Maroc flight had plenty of space around passengers. Each time I had a row to myself. Upon arriving in Casablanca, they looked at my papers again and gave me yet another paper saying I could enter Casa. Success!! I got a cab and zipped over to my Airbnb which happened to be right down the street from my previous apartment. The main plus with this apartment was the good Wifi since I am teaching online. The good location and large bathtub were just bonuses :-) One serious drawback was the 4th floor location with no elevator (although I now see it as part of my exercise routine.)
Although I was exhausted, I needed to get on Moroccan time. I cleaned up, went grocery shopping and put my stuff away. After eating something, I walked down to the ocean and the Hassan II mosque (now empty.) This was a favorite place of mine and I came here often last year, particularly after a stressful day. As I sat there, I could feel myself finally believing that I was back. I can't wait to see what this year brings.
